In ancient Ephesus society, clothing was one of the most visible indicators reflecting a person's social status and identity. The cut, color, and even how garments were worn would reveal whether someone was a citizen, born free, or a slave, or which class they belonged to. For instance, during the Roman era, the shoulder shawl known as pallium, which was frequently worn in daily life, was considered an ordinary garment without any status indication. Conversely, those who possessed the privileges of Roman citizenship would showcase their status during official ceremonies by wearing a toga. The toga was a special attire that could only be worn by Roman citizens, and it attributed to the wearer a privileged position. Some details on the toga even symbolized ranks and positions directly. The wide purple stripe (toga praetexta) added to the border of the toga was worn by children and high-ranking officials (such as curule magistrates) and indicated a public office. The completely purple toga picta was an attire symbolizing the highest status, worn in special occasions by victorious commanders or the emperor. Even the tunics worn under the toga and the accessories carried held significance: For instance, the high-ankle red boots called the calceus patricius were the shoes of men belonging to the Roman patrician (noble) class. Similarly, individuals of senator rank wore special shoes called calceus senatorius that enveloped the foot up to the ankle, which can be clearly seen on the statue dressed in a toga exhibited in the Ephesus Museum, helping identify it as belonging to a Roman senator.

In women's clothing, too, there were subtleties that revealed their social position. A free and wealthy Ephesian woman would wear dresses made of quality linen or silk in vibrant colors, complemented by gold jewelry; whereas a woman from the lower class or a slave typically wore simple, uncolored clothes made from thicker wool, close to the natural color of linen. Indeed, while the jewelry of the rich was made of gold, poorer and middle-class women wore accessories made of bronze, glass, or terracotta covered with gold gilt. Ephesian elite women could adorn their hair with pearls and ribbons, creating complex buns, and since such elaborate hairstyles required regular maintenance and servant labor, this was considered a status indicator as well. During the vibrant times of the Imperial era, men as well as women started to use colors in clothing, with noble men especially not hesitating to showcase their status through garments with purple and red details. On the other hand, the clothing of slaves was as cost-effective and standard as possible: They typically wore simple tunics or exomis made from cheap coarse wool, could walk barefoot instead of sandals, or used very simple leather shoes. In some cases, even slaves working in public spaces wore uniform-like garments bearing the coat of arms or brand of their masters (such practices were known for the slaves of large houses in Rome). In conclusion, clothing in ancient Ephesus could be said to function as a “identity card”. Roman writers noted that by looking at a person’s attire, it was possible to discern their social rank, profession, and even moral status. The phenomenon of displaying status through clothing has been explained by comparing modern judicial robe and barrister attire with the ancient tradition of the toga praetexta: Just as today the colorful stripes on the robes of judiciary members denote their rank, so did the purple stripe added to a toga in Rome help distinguish high-level officials. In summary, in ancient Ephesus, fashion and clothing were not merely matters of aesthetics or necessity; they were also a visible language of societal order and hierarchy.

 

 

In ancient Ephesus society, clothing was one of the most visible indicators reflecting a person's social status and identity. The cut, color, and even how garments were worn would reveal whether someone was a citizen, born free, or a slave, or which class they belonged to. For instance, during the Roman era, the shoulder shawl known as pallium, which was frequently worn in daily life, was considered an ordinary garment without any status indication. Conversely, those who possessed the privileges of Roman citizenship would showcase their status during official ceremonies by wearing a toga. The toga was a special attire that could only be worn by Roman citizens, and it attributed to the wearer a privileged position. Some details on the toga even symbolized ranks and positions directly. The wide purple stripe (toga praetexta) added to the border of the toga was worn by children and high-ranking officials (such as curule magistrates) and indicated a public office. The completely purple toga picta was an attire symbolizing the highest status, worn in special occasions by victorious commanders or the emperor. Even the tunics worn under the toga and the accessories carried held significance: For instance, the high-ankle red boots called the calceus patricius were the shoes of men belonging to the Roman patrician (noble) class. Similarly, individuals of senator rank wore special shoes called calceus senatorius that enveloped the foot up to the ankle, which can be clearly seen on the statue dressed in a toga exhibited in the Ephesus Museum, helping identify it as belonging to a Roman senator.

In women's clothing, too, there were subtleties that revealed their social position. A free and wealthy Ephesian woman would wear dresses made of quality linen or silk in vibrant colors, complemented by gold jewelry; whereas a woman from the lower class or a slave typically wore simple, uncolored clothes made from thicker wool, close to the natural color of linen. Indeed, while the jewelry of the rich was made of gold, poorer and middle-class women wore accessories made of bronze, glass, or terracotta covered with gold gilt. Ephesian elite women could adorn their hair with pearls and ribbons, creating complex buns, and since such elaborate hairstyles required regular maintenance and servant labor, this was considered a status indicator as well. During the vibrant times of the Imperial era, men as well as women started to use colors in clothing, with noble men especially not hesitating to showcase their status through garments with purple and red details. On the other hand, the clothing of slaves was as cost-effective and standard as possible: They typically wore simple tunics or exomis made from cheap coarse wool, could walk barefoot instead of sandals, or used very simple leather shoes. In some cases, even slaves working in public spaces wore uniform-like garments bearing the coat of arms or brand of their masters (such practices were known for the slaves of large houses in Rome). In conclusion, clothing in ancient Ephesus could be said to function as a “identity card”. Roman writers noted that by looking at a person’s attire, it was possible to discern their social rank, profession, and even moral status. The phenomenon of displaying status through clothing has been explained by comparing modern judicial robe and barrister attire with the ancient tradition of the toga praetexta: Just as today the colorful stripes on the robes of judiciary members denote their rank, so did the purple stripe added to a toga in Rome help distinguish high-level officials. In summary, in ancient Ephesus, fashion and clothing were not merely matters of aesthetics or necessity; they were also a visible language of societal order and hierarchy.